Curious fact: Big bird is blue in Holland
We left Arquipa at three o'clock in the morning on the off chance that, after a six hour drive, we might be in time for the thermals in the Colca canyon to be up, running, and full of condors floating backwards and forwards, or doing whatever condors do.
OUr journey to the canyon passed the highest point on our journey, around 4800 meters above sea level. The truck stopped and we all got out to be woozy and take pictures.
The canyon itself is apparently one of the deepest in the world. It doesn't have the breadth of the Grand Canyon, certainly, but standing on the edge and looking down into the narrow stream that marks the bottom is a vertigo inducing experience. With or without condors, the place is a spectacular one, vast walls of crumpled grey brown rock face off against each other, both desolate and beautiful. The only downside was that fact that we were certainly not the only ones there. The viewing point was mobbed with (fellow) tourists and the circus that such gatherings usually provide, women selling rugs, jewlery and tourist tat, kids with sweets. How the birds were going to show themselves with such a racket going on was anyone's guess.

But there they were. Not close, but enough to make out the white feathers on the backs of the adult condor's wings as it drifted past deep in the canyon. And that seemed to be the best we were going to get. Other birds circled around far off, black specks vanishing and reapearing against the rock faces, but nothing that could be caught on camera. Nothing that could be distinguished as a condor and not one of the vultures which seem as common as sparrows out here. We stood around idly hoping that some vast specimin would launch itself past us and make the early start worth while. Nothing.

Feeling like Bill Oddie on a bad day, we trudged off to have breakfast by the truck, while our guide tried to enthusiastically encourage us to have a walk along the top of the canyon instead. Putting asside our corn flakes and fruit loops, we agreed and, after one futile glance back at the viewing site, set off along the steep path running across the top of the canyon.
Most of the tourists had dispersed by this point. Other overland trucks had packed up and left and the markets were putting things away. And a bloody great condor swooped down the canyon and circled us directly above our heads. No, there were two of them. One young, one old. Suddenly the walk seemed like a very good idea indeed. After much snapping of cameras, 'oohin' and 'aahing', we set off again on the walk.
With sheer drops on one side of the path, the going was a little slow, particularly as the lack of rain in the past few months had made the path dusty and worryingly frictionless.
"Jesus!" someone yells.
There's another condor. Only this time it's about a metre or two away from where we are standing, drifting lazily along the top edge of the canyon oblivious of our presence. And it is HUGE. Wingspan about the same as my armspan, no kidding. And an ugly creature to boot. With such a sudden apearence, everyong is strugling to grab their cameras, put away after what they thought was the final display, but the bird turns leisurely and vanishes back down the canyon again.

So, worth getting up for. We admit that, but most are exhausted, so the afternoon trip to a local spa seems worth missing in favour of a few hours in bed, particularly as it is so cold at this altitiude and the weather looks a bit stormy.
Arms twisted, we all grab towels and swiming gear and are herded to the local baths, fueled by the volcanic ash warmed water pumped up from underground. On our way, we pass through a village who are in preperations for a festival, one which bizarely features a number of home made gallows with teddies and barbies swinging off them. We are told that this is the festival of the virgin, but it looks a bit sinister.
The baths however, are fabulous, warm, very warm and oh so welcome on such a cold day, particularly as beers and piña colladas are served while you soak. The gentle spattering of rain is quite welcome too, nice and cool when the heat of the pools feel too much. Bliss.
- posted by Vince @ 9:47 AM